How to Grow Strawberries

Strawberry beds have a limited life and need to be replaced every 3-5 years with virus-free stock. They should be replanted each time on a fresh site where they have not been grown for several years. Therefore, they are best grown as a rotational crop with vegetable plants, rather than being included in a more permanent fruit area. Choose a sheltered area of the garden in full sun and, if possible, avoid known frost pockets.

While strawberries will grow on most soils, they require well-drained, moisture-retentive soil rich in humus to thrive. So, dig in plenty of well-rotted organic matter, like farmyard manure or garden compost.

When to Sow Strawberry Seeds

Strawberry seeds are best sown between January and April. They will then be ready for harvesting between June and September.

How to Sow Strawberry Seeds

Strawberries can be grown from seed by home gardeners. However, strawberry plants are more often opted for as strawberry seeds can be difficult to germinate, being a slower and potentially unreliable process.

If growing from seed, they should be sown thinly in peat-free compost in seed trays indoors. When large enough to handle, around 2cm (0.8 in) tall, they should be transferred into a bigger pot. They should then be gradually hardened off to acclimatise them to outdoor conditions. They can be transferred to a growing area outdoors between March and June when the weather is warm enough to support their growth.

When to Plant Strawberry Plants

Strawberry plants are best planted between March and June, taking around two to three months to produce fruit. However, they can be planted in August or early September to produce fruit the next year. This gives the plants more time to establish before they fruit, which generally produces better fruits.

How to Plant Strawberry Plants

Set plants 37-45cm (15-18in) apart, in rows 82-90cm (33-36in) apart. Plant with a trowel, ensuring the roots are well spread out in each planting hole. It is most important to set the crowns just level with the soil surface. After refilling with moist soil, firm in each plant with your boot.

Growing Strawberries in Hanging Baskets and Containers

Strawberries are well-suited to hanging baskets or patio containers and are ideal for those with limited space. Growing them in baskets will also reduce attacks from slugs and snails. For a 30cm (12in) basket, use three to five plants. Upon receipt, they can be planted straight away. Incorporate some water-retaining granules and slow-release fertiliser into the compost before planting and ensure they are frequently watered.

Growing Framberry Plants

This variety combines the taste of strawberry and raspberry! They are easily grown in the same way as strawberries. Fully hardy, and with a fast-growing habit, Framberries can be grown in containers or baskets, as well as in the traditional way planted in the ground.

Prepare the ground in the same way as for strawberries. When planting out, space the plants at 45cm (18in) intervals with 75cm (30in) between each row and apply a generous layer of mulch around the base of the plants, being careful to avoid the crown. If training onto a support, tie them in as they start to grow and keep the runners off the ground.

Watering

You should water your strawberry plants well as they are establishing and in the event of dry spells. 

Strawberries suffer more than most other fruit in times of drought. If the weather turns dry at any time after the fruits start to swell, water rows thoroughly about once a week until rainfall returns to normal.

You should avoid watering your plants directly on the crown or getting any fruits wet, as this can lead to the development of grey mould.

Feeding

Strawberries benefit from regular feeding, so you should feed your plants with a high potash plant feed from early spring onwards every week or two. For a specified feed, you can use liquid strawberry soil fertiliser which promotes strong and healthy growth.

Mulching

At the beginning of June, mulch fruiting rows with straw, tucking it around the plants and under the fruiting trusses. This keeps the fruits clean, reduces rotting and prevents weed growth. Do not put down straw earlier in the season, as this will increase the chances of frost damage. As an alternative, plant protection mats also work as an effective mulch.

Your strawberries will be ready for harvesting between June and September. They should be picked when they are fully ripe, appearing bright red all over. This is because they won’t ripen any further once picked. They should be picked at the warmest time of day, as this is when they will taste their best. Be sure to eat them as soon as possible after picking, as they won’t keep very well.

Immediately after picking has finished, clip over the plants with a pair of shears to remove the leaves. This allows a crop of new leaves to grow to nourish developing flower buds that will produce the following year’s crop. Remove the straw mulch and give the bed a thorough weeding at the same time. Compost or burn all the material removed.

Propagation

Plants will start to produce runners from about mid-June onwards. If you wish to keep rows of single-spaced plants, cut off the runners as they develop.

The alternative is to encourage the formation of matted rows, which give higher yields. To achieve matted rows, allow the first 7-10 runners from each parent plant to root in a band 20-25cm (8-10in) on either side of the row and only remove any that are surplus to this. Keep rows well weeded at all times and, each year in February; top-dress plants with a high potash fertiliser to encourage flowering and fruiting. You can have extra-early strawberries if you cover an early variety with cloches or a polythene tunnel at the end of February.

Harvesting Perpetual (Everbearing) Fruiting Strawberries

Known as everbearing strawberry plants, these varieties start to flower at more or less the same time as other strawberries but continue to produce flowers and fruit until the weather becomes too cold in October. The fruiting period can be extended if plants are protected with garden cloches in the autumn. As the main reason for growing these varieties is to obtain fruit in late summer and autumn, it is recommended that any flowers produced before the end of May are cut off to encourage maximum production of fruit from July onwards. Later flowers should all be left on, even in the first year.

Cultivation differs from that of standard varieties in that fewer runners are produced and, as these flower and fruit immediately, they should not be removed. Also, plants should not be defoliated in summer. Instead, old leaves should be removed and beds cleaned up in late winter.

Strawberries are highly rewarding to grow, though are known to sometimes face certain problems. Below are the most common issues that gardeners encounter and how to prevent or remedy them:

• Birds -After strawing your plants, cover rows with garden netting to prevent the ripening fruits being attacked by blackbirds or other birds. Support the net clear of the plants.
• Slugs and snails - Strawberry plants can be prone to attack from slugs and snails. If they pose a problem, using snail and slug control products can help to prevent or solve the problem of attacks. It’s worth noting that growing strawberries in hanging baskets is a simple yet effective method of prevention.
• Frost - If frost is forecast after plants have come into flower, protect them from damage by covering them with fleece, plastic or other suitable material.
• Powdery mildew - Powdery mildew is a fungal disease, appearing in the form of white, powdery growth on foliage. Though rarely fatal, it can affect yield and flavour in more serious cases. You should remove any affected foliage as soon as possible. For more information on treatments, including various treatments you can create at home and prevention methods, read our blog on the best powdery mildew treatment.
• Verticillium wilt - Verticillium wilt is a fungal disease that can cause strawberries to die back and wilt. Practising good garden hygiene, growing in well-drained soil with a high (though not excessive) level of nutrients, and choosing disease-resistant varieties are all methods of prevention. For more information on this disease and how to control it, be sure to read our guide on how to prevent verticillium wilt.
• Grey mould - Grey mould is a fungal disease that thrives in wet and humid conditions, causing a fuzzy layer of grey mould to cover berries. This can be prevented by not overcrowding plants, avoiding getting the crown and berries wet when watering and removing any dead plant matter around your plants.
• Vine weevils - Vine weevils are a problematic pest, with larvae attacking the roots of your strawberry plants and adults attacking the leaves. The best method to deal with them is to squash them by hand or to use biological controls, such as vine weevil nematodes.

After reading our full guide on how to grow strawberries, you now have all the tips you need to produce irresistible berries come summertime. If you’re looking for quality strawberry plants and strawberry seeds to get you started, you can find an excellent variety in our range at D.T. Brown. With many excellent cultivars to choose from for reliable growth, you can find your most preferred plants or seeds easily with us.

To learn how to grow many other fruit plants and vegetable plants, you can find many more detailed growing guides and helpful articles to get your growing space thriving on our garden blog.